Usually the day before a shipment arrives here at the store I remove all of the koi from one of our quarantine systems to get it ready for the new arrivals. One of our main systems consists of 4, 450 gallon tanks plumbed together at the bottom with 3" pipe and 3" bottom drains. The unfiltered water is gravity fed to Patio Ponds Filter Systems, we use The Cyclone 5000 model here on our main systems. They consist of 3 chambers, the first being a settlement chamber, the second and third being mechanical and biological filters. We use Kaldness in the second chamber and white Matala Rolls in the third chamber. I'll add salt to the water at a rate of 50-lbs per 1000 gallons (5ppt). Sometimes I'll add Dimilin and Supaverm before the koi arrive but this depends on the time of the year. We also heat all of our tanks so the temperature is adjusted to 65° to start with and then gradually raised. Also all of the water is ran through UV lights.
What we typically do immediately after arrival:
Once I return from the airport with the koi I'll float the koi bags for as long as it takes to un-box all of the bags. After this each bag is placed into a koi bowl where the koi are released and then sock netted into the Q-tank preventing any of the bag water from entering the Q-system. I'm not worried about parasites getting into my system from the bag water it's just that I want as little of the nasty 30 hour old bag water getting into the system as possible. On arrival sometimes a koi will be on its side or struggling, these koi are taken care of first, typically by placing them into a floating koi basket with several large airstones. Once all of the koi are swimming as normally as they do after a 30-hour long flight packed in a bag in a box, I'll add Refresh and sometimes Elbagin (Japanese Antibiotic) to the water. I don't spend a lot of time acclimating the koi to the temp and pH, after what they have been through I don't want to prolong getting them into clean, warm, salty water. I also keep the air cranked to maximum to disrupt the water surface as much as possible. This prevents the koi from seeing anything and getting skittish while settling into their new environment. Something very important to note here is all of the tanks in the shop have nets over them because new arrivals will jump out!
After a few days: After the koi have rested for a few days I'll do random scrapings for microscopic examination. I'll scrape several koi from each of the different breeders that I've purchased from, scraping from various places on the koi's body. If I find any parasites I'll treat accordingly, for example when treating for Anchor Worm or Fish Lice I'll use Dimilin, skin and gill flukes I'll use Supaverm and for almost everything else I'll use Potassium Permanganate. After the PP treatment or any other treatment I'll raise the water temperature to over 73° for a 3 weeks. I also use Koizyme in my systems but I truly believe that if you have clean water and healthy koi then this might not be necessary although a small price to pay to be sure.
Something that helps us quarantine more effectively here is that I started to buy koi from fewer breeders, pre-KHV you might not think twice about buying koi from less then suitable conditions and dealing with any issues when you received the koi back in the USA but now-a-days it isn't so smart to make decisions like that. I will only buy from a reputable breeder that can guarantee live arrival to the USA and will stand behind his koi. Also because of my contact with Fujio Oomo I have first hand information about most all of the breeders koi conditions in Niigata so I can steer clear from any issues. I'll hold the koi until they are parasite free and until I'm sure they will not break-out with anything from the stress of shipping which is about 1 month from arrival till the koi are placed for sale.
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